Glimpses of India
The Traditional Goan Pader
This section is a nostalgic pen-portrait of the traditional Goan village baker, or "pader", who still holds an important place in society due to the lasting influence of the Portuguese. The author fondly remembers childhood days when the baker acted as a friend and guide, waking the children with the jingling thud of his bamboo staff as he delivered loaves for the elders and sweet bread-bangles for the kids. Baking was deeply ingrained in the culture; marriage gifts were meaningless without sweet bread called "bol", and cakes and "bolinhas" were an absolute must for Christmas. It was also a highly profitable profession, evidenced by the bakers' plump, "jackfruit-like" physical appearance, proving they never starved.
The Land of Rolling Hills
Coorg, or Kodagu, is the smallest district of Karnataka, described as a piece of heaven famous for its evergreen rainforests, spices, and sprawling coffee plantations. The region is inhabited by a fiercely independent and martial race of people, who are possibly of Greek or Arabic descent. The theory of Arab origin is supported by the traditional long black coat with an embroidered waist-belt they wear, known as the kuppia, which resembles the kuffia worn by the Arabs. Coorg possesses a proud military heritage; the Coorg Regiment is one of the most decorated in the Indian Army, and General Cariappa, the first Chief of the Indian Army, was a Coorgi.
Legends of the Brew
Rajvir and Pranjol travel by train to Assam, a region featuring the largest concentration of tea plantations in the world. During the journey, Rajvir shares fascinating legends regarding the discovery of tea. One tells of a Chinese emperor who always boiled his water, discovering tea when burning twigs fell into the pot and gave it a delicious flavour. Another is an Indian legend about Bodhidharma, a Buddhist ascetic who cut off his eyelids to banish sleep; ten tea plants supposedly grew from these eyelids, the leaves of which banished sleep when drunk in hot water. The boys eventually arrive at the Dhekiabari Tea Estate, which is managed by Pranjol's father, arriving precisely during the second-flush or sprouting period (May to July) that yields the very best tea.
Cultural Highlights
The Goan Kabai
The baker or bread-seller of the old Portuguese days wore a peculiar dress known as the "kabai", a single-piece long frock reaching down to the knees. Today, anyone wearing half pants reaching below the knees invites the comment that he is dressed like a pader.
The Kodavus
Fiercely independent people known for a deep tradition of hospitality and recounting numerous tales of valour. They hold a unique privilege: even now, Kodavus are the only people in India permitted to carry firearms without a licence.
Key Takeaways
Portuguese Heritage
Though the old Portuguese days are gone, their famous loaves of bread live on. The age-old, time-tested furnaces still exist, and the fire in them has not yet been extinguished.
Nature's Abundance
Coorg is a hub of natural beauty and adventure, offering river rafting on the Kaveri, panoramic views from the Brahmagiri hills, and diverse wildlife like Mahaseer fish, elephants, and macaques.
The History of Tea
Tea was first drunk in China as far back as 2700 B.C.. It only came to Europe in the sixteenth century, where it was initially consumed more as a medicine than as a daily beverage.
